Learning the Finder Points of Illumination
Any photographer worth her of his lens cap knows a thing or two about light. To be considered in those ranks, all you need to do is master a few basics First, remember that the broader the light source, the softer the light it emits will be.
The narrower the source, The harder it's like will be Broad light reduces shadow in contrast and suppresses distracting texture because it's raising the subject from many directions ( which is why it's beloved for flattering portraits).
A corollary: closer that the light source is to the subject, the softer dislike will be, because a light source is brought in relation to the subject. The converse holds true as well as you shift the light away from the subject, speed narrows in the light that a cast is harsher and harder. Such light plays of texture (as well as flaws) of and is an excellent choice for greedy, moody photos.
Playing with Illumination:
Ask a portrait subject to suit your large window to make the most of it in direct sunlight. A window with a good light is a no-cost softbox.
Move lamps closer and farther away from subjects into you found the most flattering illumination.
Place a light sourced the side of fluffy pets to bring up the softness and texture are their fur.
Aim of your flash head backward that bounces it off appeal wall behind yourself for a natural looking diffusion when you shoot in a small room.
Till next time.
Write something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview.
Welcome everyone, as promised last time we will be talking about: Live view mode, Burst mode, and Color-quality settings.
First off I hope you're finding these mini recaps about your settings on your camera helpful? In that regard, I will have a very very short survey at the end. If you could take just a few minutes of your very busy day to respond it would help me allot with more information offerings to share with you.
If you're coming from a compact digital camera, you use its LCD screen to compose and focus your image. There are disadvantages to this setup when compared to using the optical viewfinders of SLRs. But there are a ton of advantages too – the primary being ease of use. But more than that, an LCD delivers better feedback of user adjustments than an optical viewfinder.
DSLR-live-view-2Essentially, SLRs that support the Live View function allow the photographer to use the LCD as a (bigger) viewfinder. Live View is a real boon for compact camera owners who are accustomed to using a viewing screen, but are thinking of graduating to an SLR. It’s also a great perk for SLR devotees because they can now take advantage of what has traditionally been a compact camera-only feature.
Granted, composing and taking a photo using Live View isn’t quite as seamless as doing the same thing via a compact camera’s viewing screen. Indeed, the image transmission shuts down for a moment just before the shutter releases – a byproduct of SLR technology. Furthermore, the focusing isn’t quite as fast as it is through the viewfinder, and the image display isn’t quick to update. One more thing – using Live View drains the batteries much faster than using the viewfinder.
Also, know as continuous shooting mode, this function lets you choose the number of shots your camera will fire off with one press of the shutter button, its perfect for fast-moving photography like wildlife or sports.
Color Quality Settings:
Many in-camera menus offer settings from Black and White to pale pastels. To learn which one might suit a situation, go out and take a number of shots of the same subject just altering the setting.
Well as I mentioned last we talked. Today we're going to talk about Scene mode, White Balance, and Auto Bracketing.
1. Scene mode: This setting on your camera includes many settings for specific subjects. Portrait mode instructs the camera to use a short exposure but switches off the flash, or for example; in foliage mode the color saturation is amped up and sets a small aperture.
2. White balance: Choosing Auto White Balance lets the DSLR define how white areas will appear in specific lighting conditions, and corrects the other colors accordingly. But you should alway consider setting White Balance manually when shooting in mixed light conditions.
3. Autobracketing: When you're unsure what exposure will work best, employ the auto bracketing function to fire off serval quick shots at varying exposures with a single shutter press.
Next time, Live view mode, Burst mode and Color-quality settings.
Till then, Happy Clicking.
Hello, in our fourth part of this series we're going to continue discussing your DSLR's options. I know many equate this much like a computer. They feel you much learn everything at once! As a person who taught himself computers, please don't think of it that way. You learn the basics and then add to your knowledge as you go along. Remember learning is a lifetime endeavor. So here we go.
Auto exposure modes.
Your DSLR's fully automated setting is called program. In this setting, the camera's computer picks the aperture and exposure duration for you. More experienced shooters might select intelligent Auto or Auto ISO modes to control their image sensors light sensitivity ( low ISO such as 100-400 work well in bright conditions; high ISOs are best in dim ones). Note There is the adage the higher the ISO, the more noise your image will contain. That said the cameras are coming out now have excellent capabilities in low light conditions. And my thoughts have always been a little noise and get the image, or just skip it or not try; I will always go after the picture! Other modes include Aperture Priority when you require a particular aperture for the light conditions. But if your freezing action? Choose Shutter Priority. (Use this all the time to shoot aircraft with props!). And last, but not least Full Manual mode allows you complete control over exposure.
Next time Scene mode, White Balance, and Auto bracketing. Till then
I'm a photographer who loves animal photography. Trying to capture that perfect moment is a passion of mine.